Sunday, May 17, 2026

Yohji Yamamoto pares again to necessities in Paris present

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PARIS (AP) — Yohji Yamamoto offered a Paris Style Week assortment Friday that distilled his language to its core: monochrome, city, fluid silhouettes, touched with flashes of rebel.

The present opened with pared-down black appears to be like, some bearing graffiti motifs, earlier than gentle fringed ensembles in sandals lent the severity a gentler sway.

Tartan arrived in shredded, deconstructed type, interrupting the meditations on black with a jolt of sample, adopted by white robes that trailed in strips, ethereal but uncooked. Foliage-like bands traced torsos like summary vines. Lastly, purple emerged in sculptural coats — a flourish of drama that underlined his intuition for delicate spectacle.

At 81, Yamamoto has lengthy resisted trend’s cycles. He’s nonetheless the grasp of deconstruction: puzzle-piece coats, layered bustles, and Cubist geometries have outlined his a long time of labor. Right here, although, he leaned into simplicity, echoing his current reveals the place fragility and empowerment are in steadiness, and the place black turns into a multidimensional canvas.

The staging was hushed, the fashions’ gradual stride amplifying the sense of timelessness. In an period of fixed reinvention, Yamamoto’s refusal to chase novelty reads as radical. His garments stay unmistakably his: esoteric, emotional, and enduringly stylish.

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