PARIS (AP) — Julian Klausner offered his first womenswear assortment as artistic director of Dries Van Noten Wednesday on the Opéra Garnier in Paris, a setting that mirrored the historic influences woven all through his designs.
The autumn Paris Vogue Week present marked a brand new chapter for the Belgian home following Van Noten’s departure final 12 months after three many years on the helm. Klausner, who had labored on the model’s womenswear since 2018, approached the gathering with a stability of archival references and new interpretations.
Components of Thirties tailoring have been evident in sloping shoulders and classic head caps, whereas draped robes in floral devoré material introduced a contemporary take to historic silhouettes. A metallic outsized swimsuit adorned with silent foulard motifs bolstered an Artwork Deco affect, whereas an Obu belt with textured banding added a component of Jap-inspired opulence. All through the gathering, Klausner maintained the model’s signature layering and textural contrasts, integrating structured tailoring with softer, extra fluid parts.
But, at occasions, the gathering mirrored the challenges of artistic transition. A maximalist coat with an exaggerated silhouette skewed the proportions, making for a hanging visible assertion however one which risked overwhelming the mannequin. Some items felt exploratory slightly than totally resolved, suggesting Klausner remains to be refining his perspective, balancing reverence for the home’s legacy with the necessity to set up his personal artistic course. The stress between continuity and evolution was evident all through, as he examined the boundaries of acquainted Dries Van Noten signatures.
Nonetheless, Klausner’s basis inside the model is obvious. Dries Van Noten was identified for sudden combos and an evolving aesthetic that shifted from season to season, and Klausner has expressed his intent to proceed in that spirit. His first ready-to-wear assortment demonstrated a robust understanding of the home’s codes, setting the stage for future refinement.
If this girls’s debut is any indication, Klausner is well-positioned to construct upon its legacy.
