PARIS (AP) — By all logic, Chanel ought to be floundering. A world juggernaut with out a captain, the home has been in limbo for the reason that abrupt departure of Virginie Viard, drifting towards an unsure horizon whereas awaiting the arrival of Matthieu Blazy within the fall.
But towards all odds, contained in the majestic Grand Palais, Chanel did what it has completed for a century: endure. And never simply endure. Dazzle.
The Paris Style Week fall present on Tuesday unfolded beneath a colossal swirling black ribbon, an audacious centerpiece that coiled towards the ceiling, defiant and theatrical. It was a set that might have been a placeholder misplaced in transition. As a substitute, it was sterling — refined, exacting and completely Chanel.
The entrance row was a collision of trend royalty and Hollywood energy. Naomi Campbell, Riley Keough, and Charlotte Casiraghi led the pack, joined by actresses Dakota Fanning and Simone Ashley, whereas music sensations Raye and AP Dhillon underscored Chanel’s cross-generational and world enchantment.
Bows, pearls and sheer genius (pun supposed)
Many appears had been framed by a layer of sheer silk — flowing blouses draped over jackets, tulle overlays that subtly distorted the strains of conventional tweed tailoring, and diaphanous flounced capes that floated above traditional Chanel silhouettes.
This interaction of transparency and construction gave the gathering an ethereal, dreamlike high quality. Matte satin ribbon trimmed a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket, whereas fairly bows secured balloon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic prime. A trio of attire featured a fluttering ribbon print tracing the model’s signature interlocking Cs.
Allover appears performed with superpositions of the identical cloth, creating surrealist results: a cherry purple tweed jacket, wrap skirt and flared pants appeared alongside matching equipment like a boater hat, gloves and boots. By mixing mild, illusionary materials with daring assertion items, Chanel underscored its mastery of expertise and revolutionary design.
One accent stole the present: a large pearl purse, showing throughout a number of appears and drawing instantaneous snapping. Alongside the monochromatic class, there have been flashes of shade — purple tweed, brilliant silk linings and surrealist layering, an echo of Karl Lagerfeld ’s high-energy collections.
Naomi Campbell on a legacy of range
In an interview with The Related Press, Campbell, a longtime Chanel icon, mirrored on the present’s nostalgic ’90s influences. “I love the artisan, the workmanship. They go back and look into the history of the DNA of the brand —that’s what they think of first and foremost. And then they create it, but with that twist on it. This show for me had a lot of things that reminded me of the 90s, and I loved the silhouettes, the skirt, the jacket, the skirt and pants together. Everything was very wearable.”
She additionally reminisced about her good friend, the late Lagerfeld, whose imaginative and prescient outlined Chanel for many years. “I really miss his honesty,” she stated. “He had a soft spot, but he never sugarcoated anything. We always worked at night, and sometimes he’d tell me to stay over. It was such an incredible time. His presence is still felt, always.”
Past the garments, Campbell emphasised Chanel’s strides in range. Final yr, Lupita Nyong’o was named a home ambassador, additional solidifying Chanel’s dedication to illustration: “I’ve such respect for Chanel for being the primary luxurious model to go to sub-Saharan Africa, to Dakar, which I acquired to witness.”
The home had a landmark Métiers d’Artwork present in Dakar in 2022, the primary time a serious luxurious model staged a present within the area. It launched an ongoing cultural change program. It wasn’t only a one-time occasion. Chanel has continued its engagement by bringing college students to Paris and sending artisans to Senegal, fostering a artistic dialogue.
“That, to me, is action,” Campbell stated, smiling. “I’m actually proud that I acquired to witness that in my lifetime on this enterprise.”
She has been vocal concerning the racism she has confronted all through her modeling profession. Regardless of her prominence, she usually acquired fewer promoting assignments than her white counterparts and was not signed by a cosmetics firm till 1999. In 1991, she stated, “I may be considered one of the top models in the world, but in no way do I make the same money as any of them.”
Over time, she has used her platform to push for larger range, co-founding the Variety Coalition to carry the business accountable for its lack of illustration.
Instances, it appears, are altering. Slowly however absolutely.
Riley Keough on rock-and-roll fashion
Elvis Presley ’s granddaughter and “Daisy Jones & The Six” star Riley Keough, who famously swung in a large hen cage at a latest Chanel present, jumped up from her entrance row seat to share her pleasure about being a model ambassador. “It’s amazing. I feel so lucky to be involved with the house,” she stated.
When requested about her private fashion and whether or not it was influenced by her grandfather, she acknowledged a love for much less historically female silhouettes: “I typically go for something a little more androgynous.”
Keough additionally spoke about her function because the custodian of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s property. After Lisa Marie Presley’s passing in 2023, she embraced this duty, balancing the burden of her grandfather’s legacy along with her personal voice and values. “I really just try and follow what my mother did,” she stated. “I feel lucky to have seen how she wanted Graceland represented. It’s about respecting what’s come before while still finding my own path.”
With Blazy set to take the reins in October, the anticipation for Chanel’s subsequent period is palpable. Keough summed up the sentiment: “Everyone’s really excited. Chanel has such a huge legacy, and it’s got to be right — but I don’t think it will disappoint.”
