PARIS (AP) — At Vivienne Westwood’s fall present Saturday, Andreas Kronthaler despatched a transparent message: rebel is alive and properly. The gathering, staged on the Pavillon Cambon, was a riot of irreverence and refinement, merging razor-sharp tailoring with Westwood’s signature sense of mischief.
“There’s nothing more sexy than a suit,” the present notes declared, and Kronthaler took that mantra to coronary heart. Energy suiting dominated — outsized blazers draped over silken shirts, trousers slashed into asymmetrical skirts, and trench coats dialed as much as near-operatic proportions. A deep navy double-breasted coat, cinched tightly on the waist and paired with a towering felt hat, felt like a playful nod to British aristocracy — if the aristocracy had a punk streak and a depraved humorousness.
Texture was one other star of the present. Chunky winter coats in tough wools clashed superbly with shimmering metallic hoods and speckled knitwear, whereas velvet and tulle robes exaggerated the physique with daring padding on the hips and shoulders. Equipment veered into pure Westwood fantasy — furry heels, intentionally clashing socks, and a gilded birdcage purse, equal elements opulent and ironic.
The gathering additionally served as a private tribute. Marking his 30 years in London, Kronthaler wove in delicate references to town’s eclectic vitality, infusing the lineup with a mixture of streetwise edge and historic grandeur. As the ultimate mannequin exited, he stepped onto the runway, bouquet in hand, and flung flowers into the gang, a celebratory gesture that felt as spontaneous and theatrical as the garments themselves.
Vivienne Westwood’s legacy has at all times been about difficult expectations. Beneath Kronthaler, that defiant spirit stays, recharged with a recent, fearless sense of drama.
